Newest additions

Today Kelly and I went to visit my younger brother Matt, who like me has a bit of a passion for anything scaly. He has been breeding Leopard Geckos for a couple of years now and has produced some stunning examples. His incubator is full to the brim and he was starting to run out of room so I thought we could help out by taking a couple of the cutest babies off his hands.

This one will hopefully be a Tremper Chocolate albino, Fingers crossed!!!

This one is going to be either a high yellow or possibly a tangerine hypo morph.

     Leopard gecko's have been bred in captivity for around 30 years and is one of the most commonly kept lizards today.They come in a variety of colours with varying patterns or even no pattern at all. They can make noises that resemble growls and squeaks when frightened.Hatchling geckos can measure 3 to 4 inches in length whereas adults can reach 7 or 8 inches. There is also a giant bloodline that can reach 10-12 inches!!!. The average lifespan for a leopard gecko can be anywhere from 6 to 10 years but some males can live as long as 10 to 20.

     A 10 to 20 gallon aquarium can be used to house one or two gecko's for their entire lives. Larger tanks tend to cause problems with heating. Most people nowadays, including Matt, are using plastic storage boxes, the type with the securely locking lid. These are easier to store and the larger sizes are good for housing breeding groups or the bigger males in. A hide box filled with some moist moss or vermiculite is also a good idea, it will help you gecko shed properly and will also provide a secure place for egg laying should you plan on breeding gecko's. Here is an example of the basic setup used for the two new babies here at the rural jungle

They are basic but practical and we just use kitchen towel for substrate as this easy to clean and is not going to cause impaction (which sand could do). There are several hides in there on Matt's advice so that the babies are unlikely to fight and should they kick off, there are plenty of hiding places.
     Feeding geckos is relatively easy, they do not eat plants or veg. The best foods are mealworms or crickets but as a treat they can have waxworms or the occasional morio worm. There is really no point in feeding pinkies as they don't do a lot for them nutritionally.
You can dust the food items once or twice a week with pure calcium and a multivitamin once a week if you feel the need. We also include a milk bottle lid full of vitamin-mineral powder as the geckos know how much their own bodies need and they will consume what they need in order to get it. Water should be provided in the form of a stable shallow dish that cannot be spilled but can be climbed out of easily. Again there is no point in adding vitamin drops to the water, either use cooled, boiled tap water or a reptile safe de-chlorinator to condition the water.
      Regular handling is a good idea and allowing a gecko to run through loose fingers for 20 mins a day will help your gecko get used to your touch, try not to grab a gecko by the tail as they can and will drop them if they feel threatened. tails do regenerate but they never look as nice as the original tail.